Marinating

It's been four months since I left Central America, which to some might mean these videos are overdue. On the contrary.

This is the point by when I usually start to miss Latin culture, when I feel myself settling back into the constant hum of the anxieties of living in the states. No moment feels simple here, what with thinking about how the $5-10 I'll need at least to buy anything (anything) will all add up, about my wrist that now has a chipped bone after I smacked it on the back of a glass doorknob and will this cheap brace I bought actually heal it because lord knows there's no chance in hell of getting an x-ray for the uninsured, especially for a non-life-threatening injury, and just the constant barrage of being around people who must fill their days and do not know, could not if they tried to comprehend, how to sit, say nothing, and absorb a moment.

There is nothing complicated about any of these scenes, all from my trip to Nicaragua this Semana Santa. "Quotidian" in English has an implied negative connotation: a chore to dread, the day-to-day, a monotony. In French and Spanish, the connotation is neutral-positive: the word is more of a reassurance, something steady, something you can rest in, not something you're confined to. Most anything I ever do will be about trying to get back to or recreate communal, quotidian moments like these:

And, an addendum to my ode to Latin American buses last year:

The movies they play on the buses are legendary, or rather, the fact that the bus ayudante is actually being democratic in his selection of such cinematic œuvres is ... remarkable. On countless 8-hour bus rides between La Paz and Cochabamba, which I had to take because I couldn't splurge $50 for the 30-minute plane ride, I would to drown myself in Broken Boy Soldiers on my iPod as I watched the altiplano go by and try in vain to block out the gratingly dubbed apocalyptic Jean Claude Van Damme movies they played back-to-back-to-back, because of course I'd been stuck right underneath the speaker.

I infinitely prefer the Marco Antonio Solís.

Corcoveándolo

Heidi and I went to La Palma, on the edge of the Corcovado National Park, on Costa Rica's Osa Peninsula last weekend as part of my last-hurrah trip in Costa Rica and some relief for her from the economic oppression to the north. It was rad, and I documented this with photos.

Starring: A Somali flag, Moustache Pedro, the pickle tree, a mathematical beach line, the burliest window cleaner ever, and the fly that died by the hand of the hitchhiker's guide.

The Blue Firmament

... 'Tis very sweet to look into the fair
And open face of heaven, to breathe a prayer
Full in the smile of the blue firmament.

Playa Colibri on Golfo Dulce, La Palma, Osa Peninsula, and Keats.

Ahem, Fido.

Turns out he's a little man, I just happened to first meet him before The Fall. He still breaks my heart.

(Soundtrack by The Magnetic Fields)

"Vultures pee down their legs to cool off."

Over a month ago, one of our regular freelancers wrote short feature, maybe 600 words, about vultures. It's been the one article our readers have specifically written in response to in the last month or so. (Emphases, again, mine.)

MARCH 20

Costa Rica Home to More
Vultures Than Reported

The article by Mitzi regarding vultures of Costa Rica last week was interesting, but there were a couple of inaccuracies. Mitzi got her information from a staff member of Zoo Ave.

[Three paragraphs detailing said inaccuracies.]

Zoo Ave does very good work and employs lots of people, but most are not experts regarding birds.

– Henry

APRIL 3

Vultures Are Omnivores
And Cannibals, Too

Concerning Mitzi's article about vultures: Having spent much of the past 50 years in rural Latin America, I have some knowledge of the habits of vultures, mostly the black vulture. It may be a surprise to some to know that a favorite food of the black vulture ... is each other! That is to say, they will fiercely and voraciously devour each other when they can. I have seen a large flock of them feeding on a carcass of livestock at the edge of the road, when a passing vehicle smashes and injures some of them, whereby, those feeding on the carcass will leave it and attack and eagerly devour their brethren.

This vulture seems to be omnivorous, as I have also seen them eating rotting coconuts (discarded pipas) and baby turtles. I don't think there is much in the way of organic matter they won't eat, just so long as they can get their beak on it without a threat to themselves.

– Samuel

APRIL 24

Vultures Play Dead,
Vomit and Urinate

It's not widely known, but owners of vultures that are in captivity for a broken wing, for example, have learned that they can be very endearing pets, squawking and rushing happily over to greet them.

Owners have also learned not to startle vultures.

When frightened, vultures will over and play dead. If that doesn't work, they then proceed to throw up. You cannot imagine what the smell of vomit can be like from an animal that only eats dead things.

In addition, when overheated, vultures pee down their legs to cool off.

Vultures also, it appears, are hard to get rid of. The Dade County Courthouse, which had vultures roosting moodily on the roof, peering down at people going to trial, tried electricity, noise, gunshot and who-knows-what to encourage them to perch elsewhere, to no avail at the time.

– Susan

Crossbred Vultures
Are Fun to Name

As a follow-up to the letter concerning the common American black vulture, I submit the following experience that persons interested in this topic may find of interest.

Many years ago when at the market in San Salvador, I was approached by a rustic looking individual carrying a cardboard box, and in the box was a brood of the strangest looking birds I have ever seen: The feet and head and neck were those of the black vulture, beady eyes, hooked back, etc. However, the body was not that of a vulture, but of a different shape, while the plumage was multicolored. The vendor offered them for sale, and giggling, related the following to me: His children on his farm had captured a black wild vulture and he had enclosed it in a pen of domestic fowl to keep as a pet. The vulture had crossbred, and the progeny were those birds he carried in his box, he said.

I would suggest that any reader in a rural area having domestic fowl catch a male and female black vulture and enclose them, out of contact and sight of each other, as follows: The female with several male turkeys, chicken cocks, and ducks, and the male with females of the same or more species. Keep them continuously together for a few moths or a couple of years and see what, if anything, results – meanwhile, think up a good name to call them. One may go to the Internet for information about distinguishing male and female vultures – I suppose one could use slabs of old meat as bait.

– Steve

A Superlative Twitter Day

ME: What’s your favorite book?

BIZ: I loved Sherlock Holmes when I was a kid.

ME: But you’ve helped destroy mystery.

sǝʌoɯ ʇı ʇǝʎ puɐ

Shameless

You know a copy editor's job by what you don't see: misspellings, misplaced commas, or – heaven forbid – an incorrect style reference to the Public Works and Transport Ministry and things of that sort. Mostly it's a thankless job, but on the other hand, we're also the ones who get to help write the quippy headlines, teasers, kickers and photo captions that entice all of you to buy the actual substantive articles, thereby saving profitable journalism.

We don't have to write 700 words of concise, objective text, just a couple dozen witty ones within set character limits. The most readily available bits involve some pun and/or pop culture reference. I've also finagled nods to Keats and Coleridge, Boyz II Men and Salt-N-Pepa. Of course, as happens in 92% of my day, something that strikes me doesn't quite strike everybody else the same way, and I have to go around and poll the editorial staff to support my claim that "The Windmills Cry Mary" is not too obscure a reference. (That one passed. Many others did not.) These are some of my favorite flourishes I've snuck in there in the last year.

For the Daily News subscribers' email, which gets two photos, when I edit it, I try to get the two photo kickers (the word/s in bold before the caption) play off each other. It may seem like an added layer of difficulty, but it actually helps to direct and pin down the creative possibilities swirling overhead. I know that maybe only a pair of readers actually notice the tandem wit – on a good day – but, hey, nerds have to entertain themselves somehow:

Who loves themselves some Velvet Underground? Moi:





But this was, and will always be, my all-time favorite:

Fa-fa-fantastic

I meant to do this Favorite Music of Early 2009 post much earlier, but things like earthquakes, losing half of my job and relinquishing the other half, documenting urban geometries, tumbling through Twitter, cavorting around Caribbean idylls, and unsuccessful attempts to avoid alliteration got in the way. Whaddya know.

So here are my selections from the first third of the last year of the first decade of the third millennium:

She Keeps Bees, Nests

When a choir director places you in a certain section, you just sing a scale for them and they mark at what note your voice moves from chest to throat to head voice, and in what range you sing the most strongly. I strictly have a head voice, which is great and soprano is lovely and lofty and you get to sing all the melodies people recognize, but it means that any time I venture to sing in those arresting, earthy throat voices, I sound like a scrawny seven-year-old feebly trying to pass for her husky middle-age mother to order delivery pizza over the telephone. In other words, I am floored by and insanely jealous of chest/throat voices like this. eMusic Selects have yet to disappoint:

Props to the Welsh bands Super Furry Animals with Dark Days/Light Years (check out that cover art) and The Joy Formidable, A Balloon Called Moaning. Here's "Austere," from the latter.



Animal Collective, Merriweather Post Pavillion

Duh. But the older generation somehow prefers Young Jeezy (via Stereogum):

Regina, Puutarhatrilogia

Nothing monumental, but pleasant all the same, like a more blithe version of their fellow Finns, Paavoharju:

Tor, [Bring Tha] Illinoize
Tor mixes Sufjan with Aesop Rock, OutKast & Co. in the best freebie of the year thus far.





This bassist for Cienfue, Remus "El X" Crisán, had the most awesome angular stances at the art festival last month. I took pictures of just him for over 15 minutes.





Juan Son, Mermaid Sashimi, a thick album with what sound like grimy, esoteric Guadalajara responses to '80s British rock and Icelandic indie, alternately. (If that sentence disgusts you a bit, just remember how seriously I take myself.)


Speaking of Iceland, Sin Fang Bous's Clangour came along just when I thought I'd sated myself with the Morr label. It's as subtle as She Keeps Bees is commanding.

I also discovered that, with the addition of this album, I now have no less than three songs entitled "Fa Fa Fa," the other two being by Datarock and Otis Redding. Effing amazing.

The Sageness of the Pubescent

Students in an 8th grade class at one of the private American schools here sent in letters to the editor as an assignment this week, which I had the joy of editing. Here is their* most poignant prose, emphases mine:

As someone who is interested in the environment and likes chocolate, this article caught my attention right away. I am a supporter of the belief that fun and interesting facts help us preserve this wonderful planet.

– Michael

It is always good to find new things in nature that can be useful to us, and it has many advantages. But ambition is dangerous. That is why I ask Costa Ricans to please take care of Tirimbina Rainforest and be respectful to nature.

– Pam

Based on the information this article has provided, and as a person living in Costa Rica, I’ve reached the conclusion that unlicensed taxis should be banned. There are several reasons as to ban these taxis. There is no organization, if something occurs, there is no record of the taxi, and if one thing fails in the country’s structure, the whole country will come crashing down. If they enforce the laws regarding unlicensed taxis, the country will be more organized and an organized nation is a happy nation.

– Angela

The author provided really good examples and points of view from the taxi drivers. I think that maybe she could explain a little better what happened and why the taxi drivers were so mad and why they went on strike. Also, I think that it would have been good for her to maybe put her own opinion in it.

– Phyllis

I agree that the Petroleos de Nicaragua CEO did a good job on signing this deal. I was a resident in Nicaragua for almost four years and I clearly understand the situation the country is living in.

– Andy

The taxistas have finally decided to take the issue into their own hands and will eventually try to solve this issue with violence. I truly agree with this behavior; sometimes we have to fight and use violence as a last and desperate resource in order to get justice and fairness.

– Dwight

*All names have been changed, since the travails of middle school are enough in themselves to at least merit suffering the snark of an incorrigibly caustic editorial assistant in anonymity.

Nudity solves everything.

Sadly, her last name was not Paris:

Dear Tico Times,

We love Costa Rica. We were lucky to find a beautiful nudist resort located at the edge of a rain forest. This rustic Costa Rican hotel and club also has a restaurant with fantastic food. Everything about being nude in Costa Rica seems so natural. I read so many letters where people express their unhappiness in Costa Rica, but there are just as many problems in the U.S. Instead of picking on Ticos, go find a place like Mi Amor Resort, enjoy yourself, and be glad you were lucky enough to spend time in Costa Rica.

Twyla
Zephyrhills, FL

I Love 'My' Dog As Much As I Love You

The neighbors' little lady made my day today while I was taking out the trash:

The Corn Islands

In which Rachel and Holly go on a bona fide vacation to a tropical oasis, Nicaragua's Corn Islands, on the Caribbean.

Here's the Part I album:




And Album Part Deux:

When Words Get Tired

Granada is a photogenic city:




Starring: a haircut at Hilda's, the Boy Jesus Laboratory, the Man of the Mauve, and more colors and patterns.

Both Equally Commanding

While buying a sno-cone in Granada, the big-bellied man in a red button-up shirt takes the book from my hand to read the cover:

him: cor-MACK?
me: si, COR-mack.
him: mc-car-tee ... el general?
me: (pause) ah, otro mccarthy.

Hilarity did not ensue.

Oh sweet lord, thank you, Deadspin, for this:

Massachusetts U-7 Girls Soccer Coach Resigns Over Hilarious, Possibly Insane, Email:

This is not a team, but a family (some say cult), that you belong to forever. ... We do not cater to superstars, but prefer the gritty determination of journeymen who bring their lunch pail to work every week, chase every ball and dig in corners like a Michael Vick pit bull. Unless there is an issue concerning the health of my players or inside info on the opposition, you probably don't need to talk to me. ...

America's youth is becoming fat, lazy and non-competitive because competition is viewed as "bad". I argue that competition is good and is important to the evolution of our species and our survival in what has become an increasingly competitive global economy and dangerous world. ...

Who's with me? Go Green Death!

Best Lines of Late in Correspondence

"So I don't get to hear from my dear high school friend for years, then am excited to find her on the face book contraption, then all I get is a picture of a scary rug? What is the world coming to?

In other words, how are you doing?

... I dream of starting my own blueberry farm. I am much calmer, happier and more clear sighted than when I was in high school, but still a dreamer. Also, you probably noticed, I changed my last name for that of a high desert plant.

I hope this note finds you in good spirit. It would be great to hear some about the adult you; I miss communicating with you. Do you have a snail mail address?"

I've missed this girl.

Latin American Beauty

Setting the colors and patterns of my walk to work down the railroad tracks through urban San José to urbane Swedish indie, and in the process flattering Lauren's artistic genius, possibly to the point of plagiarism:

Starring: graffiti tags in Japanese, the Alaska-shaped bough, my jelly-clad foot 30 feet up on railroad tracks over the road, et al.

(The track is "Young Folks" an older one by Peter Bjorn and John, who, incidentally, have a new album out this week. And no, there is no comma, Oxford or otherwise, in that name.)

I cannot wait to frame this.

He has a tooth in the middle of his upper jaw.

Untrust Us

A friend of a friend is the Mexico correspondent for a German news network, in Juárez right now on assignment and sent this little report. You will note he did not write in Spanglideutsch. The second paragraph from the end is endearing if you've ever seen or can imagine a Western European try to reconcile themselves to Latin America. (English is below.)

*

Estoy desde hace una semana en el centro de Juárez, según los medios la ciudad más sangriente, más mortal y más desesperada.

Y encuentro una ciudad en paz, o tal vez en paz premortal, pero nada. Ni balaceras ni muertos ni violencia, ni drogas ni un carro mal estacionado. A partir de las 8 pm., tampoco hay gente en las calles. Patrullan 10 000 tropas en toda la ciudad, armados hasta los dientes - y ya. Se acabó la violencia, simplemente, desde febrero, cuando el presidente mandó los soldatos.

El escandalo verdadero son los medios de comunicacion. Porque siguen sacando historias de los cuales gota el sangre. Me topo con corresponsales de Australia, de Alemania, del CNN (con guardaespaldas! los Juarenses se rien), de Brazil etc. .... y escriben historias como si fueran en una zona de guerra.

Claro estoy en el mismo dilema. Me pagaron un viaje para reportar sobre los asesinatos, las drogas, la migración, la corrupcion. Pues nada. Entonces escribiré sobre los medios de comunicacion. De como se fabrican mentiras.

Juárez era el lugar mas violento. Pero ya no lo es. Si vas al barrio de la cueva (las cuevas?) en San JOsé será más peligroso que aqui en México.

Y ademas: México es un pais hermoso, con una cultura y una variedad sorprendente. Ahora ando otro día por Juárez, la gente se comporta como una mezcla de Gringos y Méxicanos. Siempre puntuales, bastante ordenados, y al mismo tiempo sonriente, relajado y abierto.

El lunes voy de regreso a Guanajuato, donde vivo con mi familia, y el próximo festival cultural. Entonces: Me siento MUY BIEN en México y mucho más seguro que en Costa Rica. Sin embargo, el sabado en el partido de futbol apoyo a los Ticos, como no.

*

I've been here in Juárez center for a week, which is, according to the media, the bloodiest, deadliest, and most hopeless city.

I've found a city at peace, or maybe a nascent peace, but nothing. No shootouts, no deaths, no violence, no drugs, not even a badly parked car. After 8 pm, there aren't even people in the streets. Ten thousand troops patrol the whole city, armed to the teeth, and that's it. The violence simply ended in February when the president sent the soldiers.

The real scandal is the media, because they keep doing stories on anything that bleeds. I've run into correspondents from Australia, Germany, CNN (with bodyguards! the Juarenses laugh), Brazil, etc. ... and they all write stories as if they were in a war zone.

Of course, I have the same problem. They paid for me to come here and report on murders, drugs, migration, corruption. But there's nothing. So, I wrote on the media and how they are fabricating lies.

Juárez was the most violent place, but it's not anymore. It would be more dangerous to go to the La Cueva neighborhood in San José than here in Mexico.

What's more, Mexico is a beautiful country, with an amazing culture and variety. I'm now staying an extra day in Juárez, because the people act like a mix of gringos and Mexicans. They're always on time, very ordered, but at the same time smiling, relaxed, and open.

Monday I go back to Guanajuato, where I live with my family, for the next cultural festival. All in all, I feel GREAT in Mexico and much safer than in Costa Rica. That being said, I'll be cheering for the Ticos this Saturday in the soccer game, how could I not?

Just like 2nd grade ...

... when you got to be special person for a whole week, and when, on your "Things About Me" questionnaire that hung on a posterboard along with pictures spanning all of your seven years in our classroom for that glorious week, under the item "Things I Do Best!" you listed 1. Play the piano, 2. Read, and 3. Be alone. "Holly, you can't put 'Be Alone,'" said your mother. "But, Mom," you said, "It's true!"

Nay

Against Depression:

Like rheumatoid arthritis, depression turns your own body against itself. It chews not on your cartilage, but on your brain cells and your sense of reality. It’s as seductive as a wife-beater, shutting out other voices to turn itself into your only friend. The only one who tells the truth about the bleakness of the world. All your energy goes towards getting through whatever stands in your way – struggling, slogging, pushing, through work and small talk and getting food – whatever it is you have to get through until you can be alone again with the voice who can be trusted.

And the last thing it feels like is an illness. No, this monumental, world-swallowing suckage sits outside you: it comes from the project, the job, the love affair, the city, the family, or the decade. For me, these low cycles have always led me to abrupt life changes. It’s a kind of shock therapy: uprooting jobs, careers, relationships, and countries. Those shifts feed the craving for anonymity and reinvention, and they leave behind the shame of a condition that breeds shame.

If you asked me why I move to a different continent every year, I'd tell you it's because I couldn't stay where I was. Why couldn't I stay? I would give you a list of legitimate external motivations for each move, but reading this, I realize the whispering portents of depression were probably playing a role before I really acknowledged they were. Of course, one could also argue that those external tensions upended the internal ones. Either way.

I appreciate so much having been able to live abroad, but, too, the idea of being condemned to the life of the inveterate nomad breaks my heart. Shocks the moves indeed were, but therapy? Ha. I had more than a few people tell me the move/change/blah here would be good, while in my head, though, I'd be snarling, How on earth is this going to help? Don't you see how this only exacerbates all the feeling of precariousness and arbitrariness? No one needs you anywhere because no one anywhere needs you.

Some of the details she describes above hit home, others not quite. But I posted it up there because I love how she so categorically dismisses the idea that being sad is just some thing we accept. Some people will tell you it's just a part of life, although more often I think those people just want an excuse for their own malaise, to indulge their indie street cred, or worse still, have some artistic/writing material, because if you do it prettily enough, giving up is noble, as if faint hearts ever won fair maidens or something like that. (This is why businesspeople aren't (often) artists: They're far too bold to succumb to some silly ironic conviction that success is only found in tragedy. I respect them very much for this.) And I do know being sad is an inherent part of things, but it's not one I want to resign myself to. This is not how I want to be. And it won't be.

If anything brought me out of last year, it has been finally being able to identify that infernal mantra above as a lie; I don't trust depression's intentions anymore. Not that that means it goes away, and batting down that vertiginous existential reeling still takes its daily toll, on my energies, my memory, my patience. But as long as I can dismiss the lie's insistence, which I do thanks in almost exclusive part to support from you all, it's ok.

And by 'ok,' I don't mean in the nonchalant sense, but in the sense of "not dramatic." A steady sort of ok. A state that gets challenged and threatened daily, but one that holds.

foto courtesy of the rrs

Best Inflatable Doll Ever Award

300 colones ($0.60) at the Tres Rios farmers' market. There was also a yellow one on a scooter.

That's the Way You Need It

This is one of the sectors that could keep Costa Rica from being completely sucked in the economic undertow.

This guy's going back to the states.

This article is everything everyone already knows about Costa Rica, and epitomizes everything I so dislike about how people approach Costa Rica, or tourism in general, like these countries just their playgrounds. "Any way you want it," indeed. Just go traipsing around, stay in hotels that sport some logo they know will appease your ecoconscience, have your tour guide (the only Tico you'll meet) explain to you in English what pura vida means over an Imperial, and then write a letter to the newspaper about how all the trash or other Issue X is such an unsightly blight on the otherwise attractive country.

Pure life, far as I'm concerned

• lavender tea with milk
  
• fresh tortillas
• watermelon-mango-cucumber
• text with no hyperlinks
• una vista
  

Maniquies Machitos

Glitzy costumes from a (literally and figuratively) flashy Latino parade on morose Aryan mannequins:

The Proof Is in the Picture

What does a copy editor do all day? you ask. This:

I think this is my record number of proofs for one page. You can click the image to peruse all the minutiae, or don't and be glad that's exactly what you don't get paid to do. But copy editing does suit me in its own way. Granted, about 80% of these never should have even made it on the page, which is lame because it means it will take that many more revisions until the page is all good, but so it goes. So, I just put my head down and keep sharpening and resharpening my pencil a friend brought me back from the Apple store as I proof those pages for the print newspaper. (Oh, the irony.) It reminds me of prob & stat with the Major, "This was just not your guys' test, huh? Don't get me wrong: I had a great time. My favorite color pen is red, man! I went through a whole BOX of them this time!"

As tedious as proofing can be, I'm really glad I'm not editing the content here, because most of the letters this week are so opaquely asinine they make me want to eat tacks.

The irresistible temptation of the 'reply' button

From: Frances
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 1:58 PM
To: Tico Times
Subject: KATE'S ARTICLE

Kate’s article was most wonderful, cutting through all the confusion of diets. Would it be possible to know more exactly what is her daily menu in the context of cutting out carbohydrates?

Could she answer this directly, or how do you suggest I reach her?

Thank you very much.

Frances

I forward this to the freelancer, Kate. (Standard procedure.)

----- Original Message -----
From: Kate
To: Holly
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: KATE'S ARTICLE

Dear Francis,

[...]

Kate

I forward this to Frances.

----- Original Message -----

From: Frances
To: Holly

Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 4:40 PM

Subject: Re: KATE'S ARTICLE

Dear Kate,

[...]

Saludos, Frances

I forward to Frances, then reply to them both.

From: Holly
To: Kate; Frances
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 5:00:16 PM
Subject: correos

I've been forwarding your emails to the other, but now you two can correspond directly with each other. Thanks! Holly

Three weeks later:

From: Kate
To: Holly
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: correos

Dear Francis,

Again, I apologise for the delay. I have had a terrible flu.

As for what I eat: I began by eating only chicken, fish, eggs, textured soy meat, veggies, yogurt, almonds, and cheese I don`t like red meat). Then I found my Atkins carbohydrate counter and discovered lots more that I could eat. For example, I discovered that eggplant had very few carbs, and I started making eggplant parmesan all the time. I also discovered that fresh coconut had few carbs, so that is one of my treats. Lately, since I`ve been sick, I have been eating creamed vegetable soups. I often buy surimi (fake crab) and do a cheese melt over it. I also make a lot of quiche. Instead of Splenda for sweetener, I use stevia (They sell it in Mas por Menos, at least here in Cartago). I have read a lot of negative reports on Splenda. Basically, it really depends on the tastes of the person. The important thing is to understand which fooods are carbohydrate and to eat just as much as you want to of protein, fiber, and fat. If you make yourself go hungry, it will lower your metabolism.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Kate